As I pull up to the valet stand in my sub 6 figure sedan, suddenly I feel like I might as well be pulling up in a Yugo. The parking lot is lined with cars I’ve only seen in magazines, many of which virtually mandate that you roll the r’s when you say the name (ferrrrrari, maserrrrrati), or that say you just got a big royalty check from your first rap album, or maybe that you’re a sales guy at Sewell that kidnapped the ride for the weekend. In any event, the stage is set for what is quite possibly the best “beautiful people spot” in town.
So, what’s the allure? I’ve never been to Mexico City but the menu is touted as Gourmet Mexican Cuisine. No, that doesn’t mean they put fresh tomatoes in your queso or make the tortillas in house – not even close. An unknown fact to many in the country is that Mexico actually does have an authentic cuisine that doesn’t happen to include Velveeta dip, grease laden enchiladas, or sports bar nachos. Yes folks. There was Mex before there was Tex-Mex! Enter Javier Gutierrez. He happens to drive the sexiest car(s) in the aforementioned parking lot, always positioned right by the front door. Want to meet the man? He’s the suave latin cat with the wavy black hair tricked out in the $3,000 Brioni suit prowling the room like he has been for the last 30 years.
Before we get to the main courses, we must talk about 2 crucial prerequisites for any fine Mexican influenced restaurant – margaritas and salsa. They usually kick off your dining experience so it is imperative they be top notch. And at Javier’s, they most assuredly are. If you’re a rita rookie, go ahead and play it safe with a frozen out of the machine or if you’re feeling risky, throw in the swirl of sangria. For those that are with the program, order a Victor’s Margarita or Margatini. Victor usually mans the front bar and though I’m not sure what he puts in his concoctions, we've always given an authoritative swill of approval. Two different types of salsa come to your table with a ramekin of softened butter. The first salsa is tomato based with a mild (is that oregano?) taste to it. Not overpowering but it is clearly the second best of the bunch. The now famous “green sauce” is a tomatillo salsa that’s different and better than any other I’ve ever had. After years of experimenting in my own kitchen, bribing a few waiters and having a chef friend of mine sneak into the kitchen for some research, I think I’ve finally nailed the recipe (you’re not getting it so don’t even ask). So, the protocol is to dip your chip into the softened butter then plunge it into one of the salsas. Why do the butter bath?? Don’t ask, just do it. You’ll be happy.
For apps, their guacamole is outstanding – always fresh and never gussied up with too many ingredients. The black bean soup is also quite a treat and the Ceviche is among the freshest we've had. Though we wholeheartedly recommend these, make absolutely sure you save room for the entrees.
I’ve tried a dozen or so of the entrees at Javiers but I keep coming back to the same 2 or 3 depending on my mood. The filete cantinflas is a small tenderloin stuffed with Chihuahua cheese (no affiliation to the dog) and covered with a mild pepper mullato sauce. It is flanked by the courtesy serving of black beans and rice and topped with a fresh wedge of avocado. Sex on a plate might be a little too strong to describe this dish, but it’s honestly not far off. Let’s put it this way, if I had an hour to live, my last meal would include a bite or two of the cantinflas.
The other selections I am eternally drawn to are two red snapper preparations - mojo de ajo and ala Javier. I’ve always thought snapper was a pretty boring fish but the mojo de ajo is the dramatic exception and takes us back to our honeymoon in Zihutanejo, Mexico where the fishermen would come into the docks with fresh caught snapper every afternoon. They would carve it up and broil it with a very potent garlic sauce providing a taste I’ll never forget. Javier’s rendition is as good as it gets in the states. Ala Javier is served with a traditional veracruz sauce with an explosion of flavors from the compilation of tomato, garlic, and oregano. Despite the generous use of olive oil, we've essentially convinced ourselves that both of these dishes are light and healthy and almost make you forget about the 1/2 stick of butter you consumed with the salsa!
For "dessert" you almost owe it to yourself to have a Café Pierre for the table for the presentation if nothing else. It’s a combo of that rich Mexican coffee and several liquors. Cinnamon rims the glass and then the server lights the liquor on fire dramatically raising the glasses to emit the illusion of a fiery fountain right at your table. Kids don’t try this at home.
Oh, the atmosphere. I've heard complaints like "it's too noisy" .... "the chairs are uncomfortable" .... "all the stuffed animals peeking at us are spooky." Whatever. Yes, it's a festive place with a lot of energy. Yes, many of Javier's prized kills are lurking around every corner. But, overly macho and boy's club this place is not. The low lighting, heirloom tapestries and rustic Mexican furniture only add to the allure.
Though the inclination is to drink a margarita with anything that walks and talks like Mexican, the wine list is very underrated here. There are many Spanish options including 10 from the Rioja region and several from the Priorat region and several from Chile that work very well with the cuisine. There’s also a solid selection of California wines for those that are a tad less daring and don’t like trying to order wines they can’t pronounce correctly. There are several middle of the road options but also the “big 2”, Silver Oak and Opus One, along with Far Niente, Jordan, and Dominus. You’re pretty much on your own with your selection unless you can get one of the managers or the man himself to come to your table for assistance. Many of the waiters seem to freeze up if you start asking enology questions. They seem to default to margaritas and Mexican beers so I suppose a case could be made that you should consider doing the same but the vast majority of the menu is indeed very wine friendly.
What to do after dinner……hmmm. You could call it a night and head home or to your hotel. Boring. You could go wait in line with a bunch of $30,000 millionaires at some place where you have to have your name on a list. Come on, private clubs and members only club lists are so 2005. Let me tell you that you could do a whole lot worse than strolling back to Javier’s Cigar Bar. Continue to sip the ritas, order up a scotch or brandy or even some Louis XIII, and maybe even catch the Mavs game on the big screen. This room just brings another level of refinement to Javier's and the perfectly swanky saloon like feel adds yet another element to the overall dining experience.
And, shhhh, don’t tell the local health inspectors but they not only sell cigars there – one of the very best selections in town - not only allow you to smoke cigars there, but will even light them up for you. Ahhh, it beckons to the days when Dallas wasn’t a freaked out, secondhand smoke fearing, communistic society and smoking in public was a manly and, dare I say, sexy pursuit.
Thursday through Saturday this room is typically packed so pull out some cash and get the attention of one of the managers if you have any notion of slinking into one of the many wing backs or overstuffed leather sofas. Sink in; take a pull from your cigar, take a sip of your favorite libation, and celebrate the good life.
So, this is what an authentic gourmet Mexican experience is like huh? Maybe I should go ahead and call my travel agent and plan that trip to Mexico City. Or, I could just keep taking the short drive down McKinney Avenue and take Javier's word for it.