As anyone in the cutthroat restaurant business can tell you, there is no such thing as a can’t miss concept.  Despite the fanfare, the chef’s name recognition, fat funding, location, sweat equity and quality of food there are literally no lay-ups in this biz.  But when Shinsei opened in late 2006, every local foodie had this enterprise pegged as the bluest of blue chip prospects for prosperity before they’d so much as carved up and served their first spicy tuna roll.  After all, it was being launched by the wives of local power chefs Kent Rathbun (Tracy) and Dean Fearing (Lynae), they were dipping into the insatiably popular sushi/pan-asian/fusion cuisine craze, and they’d designed a sexy and zen-y refuge on the edge of the Park Cities.  Most, us included, simply assumed if the food was even average this place was destined for stardom, even in the unpredictable and unreliable Dallas fine dining scene. 

How I wish the stock market was this easy to predict.  Shinsei made us all look like geniuses as it has clearly reached those predicted heights but for perhaps very different reasons than so many of us foretold.  Even though the celebrity hubbies gave it some initial star power, there have been no guest appearances and no coat-tail riding by Tracy and Lynae.  This is their restaurant.  And the food at Shinsei is far, far from average inching toward phenomenal. Yeah, okay the Park Cities locale certainly doesn’t hurt but I’m convinced this restaurant would work well in most any neighborhood.

And why?  Well, at restaurants like Shinsei the difficulty is tackling two very different cuisines and executing both successfully.  There are plenty such restaurants out there that attempt this feat but more than most have failed miserably.  When you consider the art and tradition of sushi with its simplistic preparations and presentations compared to Pan-Asian which is a collision of bold flavors with no real rule book, you can understand why the failure rate is so high.  One can technically be handled by line cooks and the other doesn’t really even require much cooking at all.  So, yeah, the temptation is there for restaurants to take shortcuts and deliver meals that are ‘pretty good’ to your table.  Keep labor costs down, get you fed and out the door, wipe the table down and seat the next party.  You’ve seen it too, right?  Well, it’s this kind of slick ass, throw anything at the dumb American dining public and they’ll love it philosophy that drives us crazy and gives restaurants a bad name.  Fortunately, Shinsei has shown great respect for both the cuisine they're serving and the public they're feeding which, combined, has turned Shinsei into a seriously good restaurant. 

By far, our favorite starter is the Tempura Asparagus.  Thick, meaty spears are battered and fried crispy.  The breading is substantial but still light enough to allow the pungent bite of the asparagus to creep through.  The greaseless spears are sided with a fruit sauce that rotates seasonally.  At our most recent meal, it was a sweet and sour seasonal fruit pureé.  On another visit it was a Texas peach chutney.  Regardless, the fruit provides a nice balance to the asparagus and savory batter. For the crunch-cravers, the Coconut Chicken Jalapeno Poppers with Yellow Curry Dipping Sauce are also a must. Fresh, fresh, fresh…but only for those that tend to take their spicy seriously!

Can anyone out there tell me how to say mandatory in Japanese?  Us either.  Where is Mr. Miyagi when you need him? Well, in any language, it is mandatory that you order a side of the Thai Fried Rice with whatever entrées you order or for the table to share even if you go the sushi route.  It is nothing short of fabulous.  Sticky, soy-kissed fried rice comes with a variety of chopped vegetables and is topped with an over easy farm fresh egg.  Your server will chop up and integrate the egg into the rice, thus putting the “stick” in the sticky.  Go ahead and order 2 bowls; you won’t be sorry.    

Entreés worth their yen include Citrus Braised Beef Short Ribs and the Whole Fried Snapper.  This tender brick of beef is marinated then braised in a combo of ginger and oranges until the meat absorbs just enough of the bright flavors but still holds on to its heartiness.  Served over stir fried soba noodles, this takes a dish usually served with a motor oil thick glaze and lightens it up with the tang of the marinade and wispy noodles.  We’ve all seen the whole fried fish thing, bent like a contortionist to mimic jumping out of the water.  We never seem to get tired of the presentation.  As noted above, they've got the batter thing down and that’s really the trick to master on this dish.  Get the consistency of your batter right and know when to pull it out of the oil so the flesh stays moist and succulent.  Mission accomplished! 

Sushi chef Shuji “Elvis” Sugawara will be remembered by many from his days at Tei Tei.  And for those that don’t know or haven’t seen him, yes, he’s quite the spitting image of a younger year Asian Elvis but he’s far from just a face jockey or novelty act.  I’m doubtful such a ranking exists but he would have to be considered one of the top sushi chefs in the city.  His knife skills and plating are a notch above the typical fold over, squeeze, cut and slap it on a plate techniques seen at the more mainstream places.  Shinsei’s versions of more established sushi rolls such as spicy tuna, spider, and rainbow are fantastic.  And, their toro, yellowtail, and salmon sashimi are fresh and tasty too but we find ourselves craving their more original dishes.  The Elvis “Mack” – a plate of fanned out Spanish Mackeral sashimi and paper thin Japanese cucumber slices and shiso (an East Asian herb similar in taste to mint) is simply to die for.  A trickling of olive oil and yuzu (Japanese citrus juice) finish off this light yet satisfying combo of textures and taste.

In perhaps the best example of a collision of cultures that somehow works, do yourself a favor and order up a Saketini for your pre-dinner cocktail.  There’s not many ingredients in this refreshing libation, vodka and sake, but its power packed and with a few paper thin slices of cucumber as a garnish, so somehow it seems borderline healthy too!

Speaking of sake…we don’t know a damn thing about it.  Like many of us here in Texas, we grew up under the guise that sake was that piping hot crap they brought out in the stark white carafes that you sipped from a shot glass.  Or, rewind to spring break in the college years, it was the shot glass of stuff we dropped in a beer and choked down as some random bartender yelled BANZAI!!!  Speaking with those that actually do know a lot about sake, we’re told it can be as complex and nuance filled as a French Bourdeaux.  We’re also told it’s not actually rice wine and the fermentation process more closely resembles beer.  In any event, we’re all for a new adult beverage to appreciate and enhance our dining experience so, we’re working on it.  For those of you that have a more advanced sake palate, Shinsei has over 20 on their list and several sake flights to pick from if you’re just starting out and want to sample several at once.

If you aim to steer clear of sake, there are other options that are just as fun. The Purple Basil Mojito and the Shinsei Sangria (served up with a lychee for garnish)…both are bright flavors that compliment this kind of cuisine perfectly.  

The wine list is remarkably extensive and unmatched by any other sushi or Pan Asian restaurant in town.  Sure, there are plenty of fish friendly whites but there are more than 50 reds to be had and even an impressive list of magnums.  Like the restaurant, the wine list is diverse and allows you to take your evening in many different directions. 

Now, think of the best dinner party you’ve ever been to … was it relaxing, yet uplifting at the same time? Shinsei has just the right energy that made you want to settle in and stay for a while (not a small feat to accomplish in a narrow space). You can see it one the faces of other patrons, “this is where I’ve wanted to be all day.”  It is Asian ultra chic with a peaceful vibe.

Listen, we’re well aware that this fusion craze has gotten a little out of control.  That being said, when a restaurant can pull off an incredible sushi menu and a focused Pan Asian menu with spot on flavors and harmoniously marry the two under one roof, there is literally nothing not to like about that. 

Shinsei means “rebirth” or “new beginning”.  More appropriate might be whatever the term is for “refine” or “beginning again”, because we feel Shinsei has tightened the reins on anything goes fusion and has set the bar for a more intelligent, focused, and congruent philosophy to this ever evolving approach to cooking.

Hey, we knew all along this was a can’t miss concept.