Have you ever been told not to order fresh fish from a menu in Dallas on Monday? Has anyone ever warned you that you should never order your fish blackened because you’ll get a piece that is past its prime? Unless you’re close with your local fish monger or work in the industry, chances are you’ve heard neither. Back in the old days when fresh seafood in Dallas restaurants pretty much meant anything not caught in White Rock Lake, restaurants could get away with getting two seafood shipments per week (typically Tuesday and Friday) and making those stretch through the restaurant week. So, when I learned this unfortunate tale, I realized the Monday fish special was more times than not the remnants of Friday night’s dinner special. I would occasionally order blackened fish dining out but I vowed to abolish that practice as well. And don’t even get me started on how this changed my outlook on ordering sushi.
Fortunately, several things dramatically changed the seafood landscape in Dallas and sea-foodies began to flap their fins in unison. First, there were several Dallas restaurants that habitually flew in their fish daily. Perhaps they didn’t market themselves well enough or advertise the importance of the practice but as part of their focus on fresh fish, they’d been doing it all along. Second, restaurants became more chef driven concentrating on daily changing menus and smaller portions meaning they didn’t have to stock their refrigerators with pounds and pounds of the same fish. Next, over time Dallas foodies understood there were a lot more fish out there than salmon, swordfish, and sea bass. As their palates expanded, the fine dining restaurants responded. Finally, national fresh seafood chains blew into town trumpeting their mantra of only serving the fish they received that day. I mean let’s face it, with a huge international airport, there really is no excuse for not having ultra fresh fish on your menu. Fish mongers can get them caught, dressed, iced, packed and on the tarmac at DFW by noon the next day. That combination has effectively meant the end of unfresh seafood in our fine dining restaurants (at least those profiled on this site).
Having widespread street cred as chef and restaurateur of fabulous restaurants in Dallas, Vegas and Aspen, when Chef Richard Chamberlain decided to open Chamberlain’s Fish Market Grill local snooty foodies knew that we could expect incredibly fresh fish with a chef’s touch filling an enormous void in the Dallas fine dining scene.
Not surprisingly, there are a lot of chalkboard menu offerings that change daily. You can expect several different fresh oysters to choose from. Now, these aren’t the sliders you might find at Acme Oyster in New Orleans where they shuck at the counter and you wash down with a pitcher of cold beer. Though that type of scene warms my heart, you won’t find any warm water oysters at Chamberlain’s. Malpeques, Kumamotos, you honestly never know what the oyster offerings will be but you do know they were flown in fresh. I can’t make any guarantees that these yankee oysters have the same aphrodisiac mystique as their south coast brethren. But if you want to really taste the crisp and briny oyster flavors from several different oceans instead of just the smear of the tobasco & horseradish concoction you put on top of those from the gulf, putting together a tasting of that day’s features at Chamberlain’s is a great idea.
A few highlights from the Appetizers, Soups and Salads are the Steamed Littleneck Clams, Ahi Tuna, Louisiana Gumbo, and April’s Salad. Mussels are more prevalent and it’s less common to see fresh clams on a menu. That’s a shame, but also gives you even more reason to try the ones at Chamberlain’s. Steamed simply with white wine and a little basil pesto, these little gems are delightful. Once you get a hunk of super fresh ahi, preparation almost becomes secondary. Their version is predictably seared rare and served with ponzu ginger sauce. Hey, sometimes simple preparations make the best dishes. Their gumbo is yumbo at Chamberlain’s, some of the best in Dallas. There is a very convoluted protocol to gumbo ingredients, something like, it has to be all meat or all seafood and then if you have okra there’s a whole other set of concerns. Ironic that a cuisine based on one pot cooking has such standards, huh? Anyway, the seafood gumbo at Chamberlain’s has fresh crawfish tails and shrimp with a little diced tasso ham. With just a hint of file powder and bay leaf, this dark and murky potion represents all things good on the bayou. April’s Salad (see Dishes to Die For) is perhaps my favorite salad in the city. They take mixed greens with lots of red leaf lettuce, mix in chopped vegetables including asparagus, corn, carrots and then toss that in a very light lemon vinaigrette. It is then topped off with toasted and spicy walnuts and crumbled blue cheese. A perfect summer salad for sure but it’s a great start to any meal any time of year.
Though there are always fish features there are a few staples that are always on the menu with special preparations. Standouts include the Lemon Sole, Redfish, Cioppino and Scallops. The Sole is crusted with grated romano cheese, topped with lumb crabmeat and caper butter and served with lemon scented new potatoes. Redfish caught in the gulf of Mexico is quite a treat. Dusted with Cajun spices and pan fried, Chamberlain’s also comes with spicy crawfish mashed potatoes and fresh herbed tomatoes. This is one of those spicy fish dishes that could obviously pair up with a Sav Blanc or Riesling but could also be paired up with a nice peppery red zin if you have the guts to be so daring. Cioppino, often referred to as San Francisco Fisherman’s Stew is one of my favorite things to eat all year round. You can basically throw in whatever combination of fresh seafood and shellfish and herbs you choose and simmer it in a tomato based broth. Their preparation includes lobster, mussels, claims, scallops, shrimp and chunks of whatever fresh fish they choose. Both light and satisfying, this will most likely be the very best bowl of $25 soup you’ve ever eaten. I absolutely love scallops with no frills preparation. These monsters come with sautéed grapes and almonds providing just enough change of pace with the textures while not overpowering the sweet meat with some big elaborate sauce. Out of this world.
So, you’re one of those seafood purists that actually like to taste the fish? Well, beyond the specials you have as many as a dozen different fish to choose from. These can be grilled or broiled with as little as a drizzle of olive oil, lemon squeeze and salt & pepper or accompanied with one of their many sauces.
They’ve also mastered the art of lobster preparation. Is Maine better than Australia? Most restaurants decide for you but Chamberlain’s lets you make the call. Maine preparations include a simple steamed whole lobster, Newburg, and a crispy oriental version. From Down Under you can get a tail ranging from 8-16 oz and have any of them stuffed with crabmeat and stuffing for a little extra.
Steaks in a seafood house? Hey, considering his sister restaurant down the road, I’m sure the steaks are great. Honestly, I’ve never tried a steak here but if you can’t calm your caveman beef cravings for a fresh seafood meal, there are a handful of prime cuts to choose from.
I’m a big fan of, what I call, high end mashed potatoes and they’ve got several here. Lobster, lemon, roasted onion, and spicy crawfish are all on the menu as are some fries that are drizzled with truffle oil. They’re all great but I have found that I actually enjoy the lighter, cleaner side items at Chamberlain’s. The jasmine rice, green beans almandine, and steamed broccolini are choices I typically migrate to and if you’ve read our site, you know this endorsement is not calorie based. They’re just fantastic sides without a lot of fanfare.
Like big brother down the street, the wine list at the Fish Market Grill is a WS Award of Excellence winner every year since its opening. As it should be, there is a noted emphasis on whites though the list of reds is deep as well. And as we’ve said before, if you like a big cab with your halibut, go for it! Another similarity from the Chophouse is their emphasis on quality service. The team here is a more mature group of veterans that has been on top of their game on all of our multiple visits.
So, it appears there is hope after all for those of us Dallasites that are fanatical about their fresh seafood. Land locked? Sure. But,
consider the trade off. The west coast has that whole earthquake thing, the south Pacific has tsunami and typhoon concerns, and it rains every day in Seattle. Florida and those cities in the Gulf are dodging hurricanes annually and the winters in the northeast US are brutal. Now thanks to Chamberlain’s Fish Market Grill, a big part of our geographical envy has all but disappeared.