Of course it makes financial sense to design a restaurant for the masses, play it safe with your menu offerings, and entice a family outing with big fat servings and crayons on the table.  Well, at Arcodoro Pomodoro, you won’t find any blinking neon signs, family sized portions, or Pepperoni pizza on the menu.  What you will find is true blue Italian cuisine, a fantastic Italian wine list, and an elegant atmosphere that all but begs you to make that trip to Italy you’ve been talking about for the last five years.

Back in the day when Arcodoro Pomodoro was annoyingly positioned in the corner of that building over on Routh & Cedar Springs, the restaurant was two separate restaurants.  Arcodoro was the more rustic, casual setting and menu with more traditional Italian fare.  They were dishing out wood oven pizzas before everyone in town caught on to that now overdone phenomenon.  Pomodoro was the more refined sibling that offered upscale fish, meats and pastas.  Both were lauded as must try spots and were routinely packed by Dallas foodies.  Thankfully, a few years ago they abandoned those cramped quarters for a more befitting graceful mansion down the street.  Still here are the two restaurants in one concept but the beautiful house merges the two concepts into one menu that captures all things good from the boot shaped country.  From pastas to meat to truffles to fish to cheeses to wild game, Arcodoro Pomodoro delivers an authentic menu whose scope is unmatched in the city.

Francesco and Efisio Farris are brothers, partners and chefs of both the Dallas and Houston location.  Good humored and charming Francesco runs the house in Dallas and is hands on to say the least.  Chopping basil, cleaning a whole branzino fish, shaking and kissing hands, pouring a glass of wine, sitting down and talking to diners – he is seemingly all over the place but remains unequivocally focused and discriminating about the food coming out of his kitchen.

Now let’s be honest, with the advent of Central Market, Whole Foods revamping their stores to keep pace, and stalwart Jimmy’s Food Store emerging as a store that seemingly everyone knows about now, finding authentic Italian ingredients is not all that difficult anymore.  I mean it seems like every home chef I know has parmesan reggiano, prosciutto di parma, a high quality olive oil and a Pinot Grigio on hand pretty much all the time.  Still, considering restaurants are catering to a mostly unknowing public the temptation is there for them to skimp and use less expensive, non-Italian ingredients.  Not the case at Arcodoro Pomodoro.  In addition to the aforementioned staples, you see their commitment to imported Italian elements spelled out all through the menu – polenta, bresaola (sundried cured beef), true buffalo mozzarella, grana cheese, semolina flour, bottarga (dried fish roe), squid ink, Cannonau reduction sauce, Sardinian caviar, and my favorite fregula – described as Sardinian cous cous on the menu.  Apologies to those who were expecting to see chicken parmesan and fettuccini alfredo on that list of authenticities. 

Let’s talk about the island of Sardinia for a moment.  Located in the middle of the Mediterranean, it has become quite the destination location for jet set Europeans and other ambitious tourists due to its unique combination of coastline and rich inland heritage. Despite the fact that this sexy island has become more en vogue for discerning vacationers, Sardinian cuisine is the humble cooking of the shepherds, farmers, and fisherman.  Very simple and fresh ingredients without a lot of commotion.  So, in step with that description, here is our rundown of the wonderful menu at Arcodoro Pomodoro.

On their Antipasti list, the Polenta al Nero di Seppia con Calamaretti is one of the best dishes I’ve ever eaten.  Creamy polenta is topped with calamari sauteed in black squid ink sauce.  Now, if the term squid ink is not familiar to you this typically comes from the cuddlefish – a cousin to calamari.  It is black and it is inky and has an unbelievable salty flavor.  So, once you get over the fact that your polenta and calamari is black, you’ll be fine.  This really is something special.

Though the bresaola is not indigenious to Sardinia, it is something you just don’t see on Dallas menus and is definitely worth trying.  It is an aged sundrief beef filet that is traditionally sliced thin and served with a squeeze of lemon juice and olive oil.  Arcodoro Pomodoro’s preparation is served with grilled Belgian endive, arugula, and fresh orange sections.  The combination of flavors in this dish are really unique. 

One salad worth mentioning is the Marchese.  Again, nothing earth shattering in terms of preparation but the simple flavors of baby arugula, sauteed wild mushrooms, ribbons of grana cheese and a nice drizzle of truffle oil is uncomplicated yet tasty and glamorous.

Secondi is labeled as Pastas & Risottos on Arcodoro’s menu.  As has been noted on many other restaurant recommendations, I am a an overly critical gnocchi addict.  Their gnocchi here is definitely a cut above, served with a fresh pesto and light cream sauce, however, their Maccorrones de Puntzu is the dish worth highlighting.  They hand make what looks like tiny little gnocchi dumplings with semolina flour.  To this, they incorporate a savory and slightly sweet baby lamb ragu.  This dish will saute your soul.  Other pastas that made us feel good inside were the Bombolini ai Carciofi, a ravioli filled with sautéed artichokes and covered with an unfussy fresh tomato basil sauce.  We also enjoyed the Gnoccchetti, which is a tear dropped shaped pasta served with wild boar.  On the lighter side, they serve a Linguini pasta with skinless tomatoes, fresh clams, and garlic all drizzled with the Bottarga.  Once again, a unique flavor profile you just don’t find anywhere else in Dallas. 

I love a good risotto and the ones we have tried at Arcodoro have always been cooked a perfect al dente.  If you didn’t listen to us and didn't order the calamari with squid ink over polenta as one of your appetizers, they give you another shot here.  This version substitutes the risotto for the polenta and serves grilled prawns over the top instead of the calamari.  It’s equally delicious.  They also have a very simple presentation with asparagus tips, parm reggiano and truffle oil.  Bright green earthy tips, salty and luscious cheese gently kissed with liquid gold (our nickname for truffle oil).

On to the meat and fish, the Carne and Pesce – not Art and Joe by the way – section of the menu includes several remarkable dishes but two really leap off the page.  From the sea, they dish up a shrimp and scallops dish that is over the top good.  Three jumbo grilled scallops and four shrimp are simmered in a subtle saffron basil sauce and garnished with a handful of matchstick sized fried leeks.  The standout for my fellow carnivores is unquestionably the split Veal shank.  The meat, of course, is fall off the bone tender but what really sets this one apart from others is the Cannonau (a Grenache type grape native to Sardinia) wine reduction that the meat is braised in.  Served over a nice risotto; both the meat and the rice soak up just enough of the wine reduction to meld all the components into one perfect dish. 

If you aren’t that hungry and want to take advantage of a nice evening with al fresco dining, both the Margherita and Genovese pizzas deserve your consideration.  The Margherita is nothing more than mozzarella, tomatoes and basil but the cheese is true Buffalo.  I can think of maybe three or four places in the city that actually serve true Buffalo.  This alone sets this little pizza apart.  The Genovese features grilled eggplant, a very nice basil pesto, baby arugula and goat cheese.  Again, Dominoe’s pepperoni pizza this ain’t.  I know I sound like a broken record but simple, fresh, delicious. 

From the elegant setting to the unique and unpretentious menu to the suave service and fabulous Italian wine list, Arcodoro Pomodoro stands their ground as a beacon amidst the many other overly homogenized Italian eateries in Dallas and is a real treasure for the serious foodie who is interested in tasting an authentic Italian meal.