Parigi
has the friendliest wait staff in Dallas. Yep, this is the first time we’ve led a
recommendation with an assertion like this.
After our many visits and discussions as we began to write, we kept
coming back to that one thing that always left us with a smile on our face as
we walked to our car. Of course the food
is great (or they wouldn’t be on our site) and we’ll get to that later and we
love the bistro-y atmosphere and the
commitment to all things local. But it’s
that dying breed, the unfortunate anomaly of the wait crew that clearly enjoys
what they’re doing and are happy you’re spending part of your day or evening
with them that really turns us on. Imagine
– someone that’s both competent and conversational, knowledgeable but not
overbearing, attentive without being annoying, and kinda hip and cool all at
the same time! The Parigi team really comes off as a family that is relaxed in
their own home…just ready to host you.
Snootyfoodie
proverb: In any customer service
business, it’s your product that brings in customers but it’s your service that
keeps them coming back.
So, where
does this elusive spirit of people pleasing come from? Is there something in the Natura water at
Parigi? Do all those JT Lemley tomatoes
have special powers of pandering seeded into them? We think the answer is much simpler. Chef/Partner Janice Provost is clearly one of
the good guys, er, girls in the local restaurant business…and she’s the mama of
this family. She left a catering job at
Marty’s in 1995 to be a prep cook (read: chop onions) and get a more hands on
experience of a restaurant. She ended up
buying Parigi in 2001 and now plays the role of chef, restaurateur, host,
sommelier, happiness consultant, you name it.
There’s something to knowing a restaurant from the inside out that makes
leaders successful and garners respect from everyone else. People follow people they believe in. End of story.
She took on partner Chad Houser in 2008 after quickly realizing they
shared the same culinary vision and commitment to localology. Two organic peas in a
pod if you will…
And after
a QUARTER OF A CENTURY there’s obviously a loyal following that is a bigger
testament to the place’s greatness than anything we’re writing here today. For whatever reason, we didn’t have Parigi in
our normal rotation. Now, granted, it’s
a very large rotation but we always had a good experience there and neither of
us could figure it out. So, we’ve
slapped each other to our senses and Parigi is in the mix now – better late
than never!
The
website says Parigi is patterned after the bistros of Paris.
And, although not too many around here are going to mistake the Reunion
for the Eiffel, DMA for the Louvre, or the Trinity for the Seine, we can agree the
wonderful patio, unassuming location, quaint feel of the dining room, and
unpretentious menu remind us of a couple of spots in the city of lights. But, screw the frogs. I mean, we can go there but we’d much rather
refer to Parigi as one of Dallas’
few true bistros.
But as
quickly as I dismiss the Frenchies, let’s start the food discussion with the
paté which is one of the best we’ve ever eaten.
In fact, I’m struggling to think of a close second. Now, do you like yours smooth or country
style? No worries, Parigi’s rendition
serves it both ways. The smooth blend is
pork and dark chicken with studs of truffles.
Ohhh, it’s good. But the country,
pork only version is great too, particularly when you smear a little whole
grain on the crouton and put one of those little tart pickles on top. Yum Yum.
My, oh,
my what did we ever do in this city without a Lemley tomato. It’s pretty much the holy grail of the tomato
faith and….for good reason. As a kid
growing up, we grew rows and rows of tomatoes but I refused to eat them. It was a texture thing. Thankfully I came to my senses years ago and
now can’t think of anything much better than a slice of ripe tomato in the
summertime. Here you can order them
straight up, in bruschetta, or paired with some mozz and drizzled with pesto
and pinenuts. We’ve tried them all and
they’re all pretty amazing in a taste the garden goodness kinda way.
We’ve
tried to think of one thing we would change about the portobello fries but we
honestly can’t come up with one. Wedges
are lighted dusted and deep fried and served with a creamy buttermilk truffle
sauce. Now, this isn’t ranch dressing
with a swirl of truffle oil on top. Bits
of truffles are swimming throughout and that makes me want to jump in the bowl
and swim with them. As it were, I just
plunged the mushrooms and gobbled them up like they had a 30 second expiration
date on them.
And we
would be remiss if we didn’t laud the award winning Cesar salad (AWIF
competition 2007). It’s everything a
good Cesar should be – leafy, not overdressed, with great croutons. Tack on chicken, shrimp, or cheese if you
like.
Off the
lunch menu, we tried the lobster knuckle sandwich – a Panini like combo of
lobster, bacon, scallions and avocado.
There’s a lot of flavors going on but the hunks of lobster are plentiful
and their sweet meat taste comes through big time. Eggs Benedict is one of those brunch dishes
that we judge a restaurant by. I mean,
if you’re doing brunch, you’re eggs benedict had better rock. And rocks their’s does! Toasted muffins, a perfect poach on the eggs,
Canadian bacon and creamy hollandaise is all that’s in the recipe but its
really not that easy to find a place that does it right. It is said this dish was named for a wall
street broker who, back in 1894, wanted a cure for his hangover. Well Mr. Benedict, our stomachs and pounding
Sunday morning headaches thank you for your contributions!! They also recently had a soft shell crab
sandwich on the menu and it was equally satisfying in its freshness and
simplicity. And, for what its worth, our
3 year old was really digging the waffles with hot maple syrup.
Whatever
the fresh fish special on the dinner menu is, get it. We’ve had parm crusted flounder over
pappardelle with grilled vegetables and recently a mahi mahi with a sweet corn
sauce. Both were simple, fantastically
fresh and delicious. And if you’ve read
our reviews, you know we’ve never met a piece of dead cow that we didn’t like. Sauced with whole grain mustard or green
peppercorn over skin-on mashed potatoes?
Um, count us in. It wasn’t UFO
size like you might find at your favorite steak place. Rather it was a reasonable cut of tenderloin
cooked perfectly. You good with that? It’s rhetorical…we’re good with it and that’s
all that matters!
Then she
also cooked up a great combo of bay scallops over a pureé of beets and mashed
potatoes with a grapefruit beurre blanc.
It was to die for and we’re hoping it takes up permanent residence on
her dinner menu.
And now,
deep breath everyone. Let’s go to the
desserts.
We love a
good buttermilk (chess) pie. Blame it on
our southern roots but with a good flaky crusty, thick and rich filling and
just a tad past firm top, this makes me miss my grandma.
The
Chocolate Glob has been on the menu since day one. It’s a bowl of absolute decadence with a
slightly crispy outside that, when prodded, gives way to a chocolate gooeyness
that truly makes my mouth water. Thank
God those doctors are saying chocolate is good for you now!
And I
have to say I’m a sucker for peach cobbler and the thicker and doughy-er the
crust the better. The good folks at
Parigi share my love. But, hmm, we love
chocolate AND we love peach cobbler.
What to do, what to do?!?! Well,
our friends at Parigi have that figured out too. Go for the Half and Half – a truly blessed
bowl half filled with Chocolate Glob and half filled with Peach Cobbler. A la mode?
You’ve come this far, so why not?
Earlier
we alluded to how locally focused Janice and Chad are. But it’s worth mentioning that she was going
local before going local was cool. And
in addition to the lauded Lemley tomatoes, you’ll routinely see as many as a
half dozen other Texas
farms and creameries listed on her menu.
Heddin, Bluebonnet, La Cuesta and others.
Cocktails
anyone? We love the idea that Parigi
shows a by the glass wine with every entrée shown on the menu. It makes it easy on the diner to have a wine
pre-selected allowing them to keep their focus on the important things like
food and conversation. Beyond the by the
glass selections they do have a smart, worldly wine list. Sparklings, Champagnes, White Burgundies, and
Rhones to accompany a solid lineup of Italians and some very interesting
selections from California and Washington as well as a couple of ice wines from
Oh Canada. Outside of a few big name
bottles, the list is reasonably priced with plenty in the 30’s and 40’s. But before you dig into that bottle of vino,
do yourself a real favor and order a couple of the Parigi signature
cocktails. The SOLA (South of Lemmon
Ave) is a frozen concoction of Smirnoff vodka, limeade, and mint. The St. Germain Stroll is a refreshing blend
of Hendrick’s Gin (our personal fave), Elderflower liqueur, accompanied by
splashes of cranberry, grapefruit and Natura water. For a hot summer afternoon reprieve, check
out the Cucumber Cooler. Square One
organic vodka, lemon juice and simple syrup poured over the rocks and garnished
with a thick slice of organic cucumber.
Its damn near healthy!
So we
painted a well rounded mural of booze huh?
Speaking of murals, you’ll notice a local artist’s work on the dining
room walls. The artwork rotates and is
for sale so go on and support your local starving artist people!! But, the deets of Parigi’s relaxing vibe
don’t end there. Your shoulders drop when
you walk in and this is no accident my friend.
This “family” wants you to settle in and stay for awhile. If you’re really paying attention, you’ll notice
the ridiculously gorgeous flowers set against a backdrop of soothing tones at
the front bar. If you notice the little
pops of chartreuse and fuscia and the borderline OCD attention to detail on the
napkins, creamers, etc then you’re in the Parigi zone.
The
dollar is still not all that strong against the Euro and those jackasses at AA
are charging the price of a good entrée to check your bag. So, why go to Paris and roll the dice on rude service and
that not so subtle anti-American sentiment?
Wasn’t it McArthur that said he’d rather have a German army in front of
him than a French army behind him? Anyway,
I digress. Just navigate your vehicle
down to Oak Lawn to get a Parisian experience that is decidedly Dallas at the same
time. The Parigi family is waiting with
open arms.